Summerside to Cavendish to Brackley Beach

After having breakfast with no less than a hundred or so families who were obviously staying at the hotel for a baseball tournament, we started the morning with overcast skies, but no rain. Not far into the Confederation trail we ran into the two couples from Ottawa coming out of their hotel. We could not have timed it better if we had planned it. They actually did ride the trail after all.

The directions on our ride GPS are not the easiest to follow. So the 6 of us got lost from the Confederation Trail at an intersection. Riding along route 2 was not fun, although there were shoulders. Lots of traffic. We finally found a street that connected to the trail, after that it was smooth sailing. We found that Shap and I rode faster than the other couples, we quickly passed them, would stop to take pictures and still be ahead of them. They commented when they were 80 they would ride in turbo hinting the reason we were faster was because we had it in turbo. I quickly made sure that we Smith’s are no slouches, we were in ECO 90% of the time. If we weren’t we would be out of battery quickly.

After about 7 miles we came into Kensington, a small quaint town with a stone railroad station, now a restaurant and a bakery. You are right – coffee and a pastry for Shap, water and a lemon cookie for me. Ivan, as we later found out, stopped to talk to us on his way passing on his morning bike routine. A very engaging man who lived in town and worked at the building supply company. He gave us a lay of the land ahead and warned of “HILLS” as he put it. Oh those hills can’t be compared to Vermont hills I thought. Later on, after 29 miles, those hills definitely could be compared to Vermont.

The Confederation Trail was much nicer with grass between the lanes, lupin blooming, scenic views of rolling fields, water ways and something we do not see, oyster traps in the bay laid out straight lines. I thought they were mussel traps until I saw all the oyster restaurants. Into Cavendish for the night in a lovely inn called the Kindred Spirits, old fashion style cottages and a friendly staff. Thirty-two miles total.

Today started with bright sunlight, quickly turned to grey weather with strong winds and only 18 miles to ride. The first part of the trip was on route 6, a busy highway but it had shoulders, so we had room. Then onto Gulfshore trail which is part of the Prince Edward National Park. There is a designated bike and walking path with views to the ocean, long beaches, mostly red sandstone and seaweed, not particularly attractive to swim and have a beach picnic. But the red cliffs are gorgeous. One of the most beautiful views we have had. Then back onto route 6, very unsettling riding with cars whizzing by, although people were respectful. Shortly we came into Brackley Beach and our hotel, Shaws Hotel, which is a historic building. Our rooms have been quaint with flowery wallpaper, old furniture and a blast from the past. Everyone greets us like long lost friends.

I asked why PEI seems to have only lobster rolls or lobster burgers but no lobster dinners. I really did not get a straight answer. Richard’s at the wharf was mentioned to us as “the best lobster rolls, better than anyone else, apparently people come from all around to eat there. It is housed in two small fishing style cottages connected by a deck. We were told in the summer the wait can be an hour and a half long. Being June, it was not busy in that sense, but cars were lined up, all the tables were full and people were still coming when we left. I had a lobster burger which I thought would be ground up lobster, like a fish cake. I now understand why they have the reputation as the best, my hamburger roll came with probably a pound of lobster meat. At least 4 sets of claw meet. Unbelievable, it was so good.

Back on the bikes to a lovely beach, still blowing like crazy, cool and cloudy. Then back to Shaw’s Hotel for a nap. Why can’t all our days be like this? 18 miles a day has a nice ring to it. Tomorrow back to 31 miles and rain. Two more days and we reach the Eastern most tip.

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