biking

Summerside to Cavendish to Brackley Beach

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After having breakfast with no less than a hundred or so families who were obviously staying at the hotel for a baseball tournament, we started the morning with overcast skies, but no rain. Not far into the Confederation trail we ran into the two couples from Ottawa coming out of their hotel. We could not have timed it better if we had planned it. They actually did ride the trail after all.

The directions on our ride GPS are not the easiest to follow. So the 6 of us got lost from the Confederation Trail at an intersection. Riding along route 2 was not fun, although there were shoulders. Lots of traffic. We finally found a street that connected to the trail, after that it was smooth sailing. We found that Shap and I rode faster than the other couples, we quickly passed them, would stop to take pictures and still be ahead of them. They commented when they were 80 they would ride in turbo hinting the reason we were faster was because we had it in turbo. I quickly made sure that we Smith’s are no slouches, we were in ECO 90% of the time. If we weren’t we would be out of battery quickly.

After about 7 miles we came into Kensington, a small quaint town with a stone railroad station, now a restaurant and a bakery. You are right – coffee and a pastry for Shap, water and a lemon cookie for me. Ivan, as we later found out, stopped to talk to us on his way passing on his morning bike routine. A very engaging man who lived in town and worked at the building supply company. He gave us a lay of the land ahead and warned of “HILLS” as he put it. Oh those hills can’t be compared to Vermont hills I thought. Later on, after 29 miles, those hills definitely could be compared to Vermont.

The Confederation Trail was much nicer with grass between the lanes, lupin blooming, scenic views of rolling fields, water ways and something we do not see, oyster traps in the bay laid out straight lines. I thought they were mussel traps until I saw all the oyster restaurants. Into Cavendish for the night in a lovely inn called the Kindred Spirits, old fashion style cottages and a friendly staff. Thirty-two miles total.

Today started with bright sunlight, quickly turned to grey weather with strong winds and only 18 miles to ride. The first part of the trip was on route 6, a busy highway but it had shoulders, so we had room. Then onto Gulfshore trail which is part of the Prince Edward National Park. There is a designated bike and walking path with views to the ocean, long beaches, mostly red sandstone and seaweed, not particularly attractive to swim and have a beach picnic. But the red cliffs are gorgeous. One of the most beautiful views we have had. Then back onto route 6, very unsettling riding with cars whizzing by, although people were respectful. Shortly we came into Brackley Beach and our hotel, Shaws Hotel, which is a historic building. Our rooms have been quaint with flowery wallpaper, old furniture and a blast from the past. Everyone greets us like long lost friends.

I asked why PEI seems to have only lobster rolls or lobster burgers but no lobster dinners. I really did not get a straight answer. Richard’s at the wharf was mentioned to us as “the best lobster rolls, better than anyone else, apparently people come from all around to eat there. It is housed in two small fishing style cottages connected by a deck. We were told in the summer the wait can be an hour and a half long. Being June, it was not busy in that sense, but cars were lined up, all the tables were full and people were still coming when we left. I had a lobster burger which I thought would be ground up lobster, like a fish cake. I now understand why they have the reputation as the best, my hamburger roll came with probably a pound of lobster meat. At least 4 sets of claw meet. Unbelievable, it was so good.

Back on the bikes to a lovely beach, still blowing like crazy, cool and cloudy. Then back to Shaw’s Hotel for a nap. Why can’t all our days be like this? 18 miles a day has a nice ring to it. Tomorrow back to 31 miles and rain. Two more days and we reach the Eastern most tip.

Machias, Maine and Campobello

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We woke to bright sunlight, according to the forecast the only day of sun our whole trip, but we can dream. Off to find the “new French” bakery on a country road, far from the center of town. I mused that it seemed an odd place to have a cafe and bakery since no traffic would find it. Apparently I was right, as it was closed. Back to the main drag where coffee was found. We should write a book about coffee shops since we are always in search of good ones.

So that my friend Bessie did not think I judged her hometown by Route 1, we drove to the center to find a charming New England style town, It reminded me of my hometown, Gettysburg, as it had many of the same characteristics. A town placed in time from decades past with its town hall, library, churches, and schools within easy proximity, dotted with older houses, beautiful front lawns, gardens and mature trees.

One of the outstanding features of the town was the white steepled church one could see from almost any point while driving aroudn the area. Shap is drawn to the architecture of churches, especially their steeples, so he was on a mission to photograph it. Upon arrival, a small annex sat to its left, duplicating the churches outstanding features. To me this was what attracted me. While he photographed the steeple, I began to create in camera multiples. You are not seeing double when you look at some of my photographs, as I am trying to learn a new technique.

Onward to Campobello where FDR summered while growing up. The “cottage” built by Grace Kuhn was sold to Sara Roosevelt with the stipulation it would pass to FDR when he came of age. In 1908 it became his home, a place where he and Eleanor raised their children in the summer months, until he became President. It is here where he became sick with polio which would restrict him from many of the activities he enjoyed as a child. The tour was conducted by an engaging man who was enjoying his retirement being a guide. A great storyteller, he brought to life the various rooms while conducting the tour. Views of the bay, expansive lawns, gardens, and paths to meander accentuated the property. A world that no longer exists where time was slower, families gathered, played outdoor and indoor games and took time to read.

We arrived in St. Andrews later in the afternoon at the Algonquin Hotel which was a Canadian-Pacific Railroad hotel. If you know these hotels, you know they are massive. A day of exploring the Bay of Fundy and the town of St. Andrews. Perhaps a bike ride to get out legs ready for the trip.

Onward to Prince Edward Island Epic 6 day bike ride

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Is there anything better than opening a Christmas present in December with a trip to bike tip to tip in Prince Edward Island on June 11, 2026. You will have to ask Shap, cause that’s what I gave him. Heads together, we dreamt of ocean air, fabulous views, zipping along on bright sunny days, stopping to photograph, falling asleep exhausted but happy.

Skip to Sunday morning June 7th in Stowe. Vermont, 7 AM departure in pouring rain with Olive tearfully sitting on her bench looking out the driveway as we drive away. Well, we say, let’s take a look at the long range forecast in PEI (as everyone seems to call it). WHAT??? Rain the whole week with one day of possible sun!! Seriously, what happen to that dream we have been dreaming all winter.

Not to be deterred, we head out across lots, as they say in the vernacular of New England, toward Machias, ME. One of my best friends comes from Machias and I am not sure she raves about it, but I will finally get a chance to see her hometown. Meanwhile, first stop at Front Seat coffee for a pastry and latte. I mean, it has been an hour since we had our first cup. And Shap can never pass this coffee shop without stopping.

Windshield wipers are going full tilt, as our trusty Red Toyota truck hugs the road, and the bikes in the back are loudly complaining of how wet they are. but we can’t see them so we ignore them like small children whining from the backseat. At mile whatever, I suggest an audio book since Shap and I seem to have run out of conversation. Remember those days when you could talk to each other, we were both so interesting and had so much to tell? Yeah that was 30 + years ago. Now, it is what book has the most murders, intrigue, gore and can be finished in 7 hours.

As we roll into Maine we pass one of our favorite haunts for photographs, the TREASURE HOUSE. If you have never been, this is a must. A three story barn, filled beyond its walls and spilling throughout the yard with everything that has ever been made since time began. Old plastic letters, hose bibs, radiators, car parts, faucets. etc. I could go on with the list, but you would stop reading.

Below are examples of the “stuff.” Here’s a good mystery to solve. Picture a basket full of those faucet heads you have on your outside water spigot to turn it off and on. Now picture a basket full of at least 400 of them in all colors. Interesting photo right? There are so many so you just put your eye to your camera, move it around to figure out how to arrange the picture and BANG, there is a decapitated doll’s head staring up at you. Seriously, who puts a decapitated doll’s head in a basket of faucets? Oh yes, I have included a picture.

Back in the car and on to Machias. All will be revealed of your childhood home, Bessie.