hiking

Back on the motorbikes for a climb to the bamboo forest. This was more terrifying than the ride yesterday. It started out what has become the norm, 3-5 foot paths, steep hills, switchbacks curving in on each other, dogs, chickens, cattle, and the motor bike with grass sticking out from the back of the bike, threatening to knock you over as you pass. This time, there was a toll halfway up, which slowed down the progress. As if to make up for it, my driver zooms full sped plunging down a steep bank only to start up an incline that was half washed out. My last look, before I closed my eyes, was a tire width path with stones popping up everywhere, and a drop to nowhere you would want to look. In your mind you imagine being flung somewhere along the hillside, crashing downward. It makes no difference if your helmet fits or not, as it would do little to protect you. As you are hanging on, you are bouncing from side to side, the motorbike is rocking this way and that, coming close to the edge one minute and seemingly bouncing off the bank on the other side.

At this moment, you are asking yourself why it is so important to see a bamboo forest when your life is hanging by a thread. You imagine the phone call to your kids informing them their mom died while sailing off a motorbike into an abyss. Oh and if that is not enough, you finally get to the top of the steep hill where the path turns into a 2 foot path when down comes a loaded motorbike full of hay. The path maybe widened to 3 feet for the rest of the journey as you continue to climb ending at the top of the mountain. Your fellow travelers are either behind you, or are waiting with expressions of horror as you arrive. A group hug seemed to be necessary to calm our beating hearts.

The rest of the morning was spent walking through the bamboo forest and practicing portrait photography with a model dressed in her traditional Hmong clothes. We had an opportunity to really spend time with lighting filtering through the forest, and different setting. Lunch was served at a Hmong family home who specialized in batik. Then back on the motor bikes, waiting in anticipation for the single track, rock strewn path you had traversed earlier. By this time we were seasoned travelers prepared for the terror and the faith that we would come back to the road alive.

Off to another mountain, shaped like a dinosaur’s spines, but the light was too harsh. We stopped for a coffee. I mentioned to the guide that it would be nice if we could find an intimate spot to photograph rice workers without tourists in the shots. This is difficult because it is hard to stop on the narrow roads. However, we climbed to the second floor of a coffee shop only to discover rice workers right below us. I decided to go around the back of the building and there I found a path to walk down to the rice fields. An adorable puppy followed us as we descended the steep narrow path. Once down to the bottom we were able to photograph the workers at the same level.

Back in the van after an hour heading to the mountain range, with motor bikes, only to pull in as a rain storm began. Change of plans to head back to the lodge, with a walk through the forest on the way back if it stopped raining. Which it did. As we headed out on the path, views of rice fields, sunset reflections in water, and evening shadows advancing on the mountain with moon rise over the trees. Of course, we all stopped to get pictures when after 10 minutes our guide informed us that we had an hour walk ahead of us. None of us realized the “walk” was really a hike, nor did we realize our vans had left and were meeting us at the other end of the trail. Sometimes it is helpful to know the plan, but flexibility is the key word when you are on a trip like this.

We were rewarded with dinner of crispy fish, and the promise we could sleep in late (7:00pm), have a leisure morning before we left. The guides and our leader seemed very impressed that 8 older people were able to do what we accomplished, which is why I believe they decided to give us a “rest.” Or maybe they needed it more than we did.

It finally happened, the dreaded Japanese meal. Yep, dinner was included in our stay at this charming typical Japanese inn in Kiso Fukushima. Beautifully appointed and arranged this 6 course meal sat waiting for us. For me this is not my first dinner choice but for Shap it is “never” dinner choice. HIs favorites, raw fish, tofu, raw and steamed vegetables, lots of mushrooms, strange things floating in broth which he was convinced were rubber bands, and finally pickled whatever. I am sure I will be hearing him mummer in his sleep, “Cheeseburger, Cheeseburger.” Despite the three glasses of sparkling water to wash down the slippery fish, he did well. Doesn’t he look happy?

We arrived by train from Kanazawa to Kiso Fukushima which is one of the stops along the Nakasendo Highway. I had read about this highway and decided it should be included in our trip as the hiking seemed reasonable and we were able to stay in a Japanese Inn and experience the bath house after our hike.

The Nakasendo HIghway was an old feudal highway that ran between Kyoto and Toyko.It was built in the 8th century and it helped to unite the state around the old capital Nara. There are 69 stops along the way and 11 of them are in the Kiso region. Our walk up the paths, past shrines,and graveyards into a forest of cedars that conjured up pictures of people “forest bathing.” The only bathing I accomplished was sweating going up hill, way above the village.

Check in time at our inn was 3:00, but 3:00 found us overlooking the village with a steep decent. Arrival at the inn was easy and quick. We soon found ourselves in our quaint room with the beds on the floor and kimonos waiting for us to wear to the bath house and even dinner. The bath house was delightful with two baths one indoors and one outdoors, separated into men and women sides. Small stools lined the walls with faucets and hand held showers, a bucket if you wanted it to wash your face, and various soaps and shampoos. After scrubbing down, I spent time in both baths and talked to some women who were walking the trail for several days. Relaxed and VERY clean I was happy we opted for this side track adventure. Back to the real world tomorrow.