September 20

Another day of sun, what luck, as Hanoi has been flooded. Here in the mountains we have had great weather. Surprise of surprises…what did I wish for last night? Some peanut butter! Breakfast today consisted of toast, fried eggs, cheese, and peanut butter. We were all delighted. Such a treat.

Off to the Sunday market about 10 minutes away. This one was so congested, it was impossible to get a clear shot of anyone or any activity. I finally came to the conclusion it would be good to move toward the food area and clothes as there is less activity. There I was able to get pictures of people eating, conversing, cooking and generally enjoying themselves. We spent about an hour and a half there, dogging mopeds, making friends with lots of people, some who spoke some English, but mostly it was sign language.

Later in the afternoon we took off for the rice fields and a town nearby. The fields were lovely, but the sun was still harsh so we went into town to photograph and waited until the sun began to set. At the very end of the market we came upon a friendly game of Chinese chess and spent a long time with them. The backdrop of a green door, kids watching their fathers, and the bantering back and forth added to the picture taking.

This area has enchanted us with fields of rice growing next to bubbling rivers, daily commerce being conducted, and the backdrop of high mountains with billowing clouds slowly moving across the sky. No other tourists to be seen, just eight of us wandering throughout the markets and fields and engaging with whomever we can. There are few places one can travel that still maintains the daily comings and goings, untouched by tourism.

After three nights in this ridiculous hotel we are happy to move on tomorrow. Our hotel has gold everywhere, Trump would love to stay here. It has 108 rooms and we were the only 12 staying here. It is owned by a woman in her forties and from what we understand it is not even close to making a profit. She owns several hydro plants so I think she does not worry about filling her hotel,

September 19

Food alert! I am good with rice noodles, and chicken broth, and fairly benign chicken parts for my breakfast. But I am not OK with a huge round basket full of animal parts. Presentation was one quarter of a large basket platter offering pig intestines, next quarter included clobbered chicken parts with skin, tendons, fat, and the bones. The third quarter consisted of pork fat with a tiny bit of meat, and the fourth quarter was a rectangle of God knows what translated as “meatloaf.” However, he sticky rice was delicious with a bit of fish sauce and ground peanuts topped with strange stringy looking greens. I am dreaming of hamburgers, yogurt, raspberries, peanut butter, bread, cheese, and cold water.

Up at 5 AM and on the road by 5:30. Our destination was an hour and a half away to a Saturday market. Upon arrival we ate our rice noodle soup with about 70 people in what felt like an auditorium. Sitting next to me was a mother and her son, who shyly gave us a smile, he then went back to slurping his soup. After breakfast we headed into the market which was more diverse than the local food market we experienced the evening before. This market not only Hmong people selling goods, but red and black Dao selling.The way to identify the red and black Dao is by the woman’s head dress. Some older women had black teeth, that having been a sign of beauty. They stained their teeth with beetle nuts. I bought several different pieces of cloth to add to my collection as the various cloths were embroidered with beautiful designs.

After the fabulous lunch I described above, we got back on the bus and headed for a national park where a winding path took us a mountain to a most stupendous view. On the way up, we came upon young girls resting by motorbikes. As we photographed them, an older woman and a young girl came climbing up a steep hill beside us, bringing enormous bags of potatoes on their backs. The girls were 15 and had to quit school to work in the fields because the families needed them to make money. It is sad to see these girls cannot follow a dreams.

After leaving this park, we went to a bridge where the local people were drying corn. The corn lay on tarps on the cement payment in the boiling hot son. Small pathways made way for motorbikes carrying huge bags, up to 8 at a time, to a central area. Meanwhile small children napped in the shade of small straw covered huts, and children played in the river, catching frogs or floating with the current. The valley floor of rice fields gave way to towering mountains in the distance. A twelve hour day, but worth every minute of it

September 18

Awakening to a rainy day we had a leisure morning. Our plans were cancelled due to the rain which most of us were happy as we were all tired and wanting to catch up on things. Several people walked through the village to explore the handiwork they were offering for sale, while others worked on their computers.

We left around 1:00 PM for our next destination which is the city of Sin Has. This is the most bizarre place. It is a town built by the government and it looks like no one lives here. But even more bizarre is the hotel we are staying at. We left a place that was rustic, full of vibrant Hmong families and arrive at this hotel which is huge, grand, and no one is around. The front entrance is easily over 15 feet high and opens into a large cavernous marble lobby. Trump would be in seventh heaven in this place with gold everywhere. Leaving behind our lovely village to arrive in this disgusting hotel was quite a shock. But they do have laundry service which after 4 days of not having any clean clothes to wear, is luxury.It turns out nothing dries here because it is so humid.

After a rest we went to the food market filled with tons of vegetables, fruits and all manners of meat. It was better not to examine the meat too closely. From the live ducks and chickens, to the cats and dogs available, I thought I would not be able to eat dinner. The market was lively,with mopeds darting here and there full of nightly shoppers buying fresh food to take home for dinner. And I mean fresh, one pan of fish splashed so energetically I got my foot soaked. Meanwhile, I could have picked out my very own live chicken or duck to have it slaughtered, cut up into pieces and even cooked for me. Thankfully that was not required of me, or I would definitely become a vegetarian.

Tomorrow 5:00 wake up call and 5:30 hit the lobby.