We are off, out on our own, now we have to rely on how savvy we are at negotiating the trains, taxis etc. Equipped with train tickets, reserved seats, and times we had to be at the train. We set out. Our first leg was from Kyoto to Tsuruga on the fast train. This went without drama. Next was a “local” from Tsuruga to Takefu, which meant a transfer and ten minutes to find the right track. The signs were easy to follow and with little anxiety we found the train waiting. What we did not find was a place to buy tickets for that train. With our history of getting arrested on trains, being thrown off a train in Berlin for not having a ticket this was somewhat of a possible issue. Not one to be late for anything, having had it drummed into my head for my entire childhood, I opted for two choices. One, buy the ticket on the train; two, get thrown off at a station, find a ticket booth and get on the next train. Meanwhile, we had a 2:30 appointment with a potter somewhere in the mountains of the area around Takefu.

I opted for number two, Shap kept saying shouldn’t we find a place to buy a ticket, I said we did not have time and so we stayed on the train and it left. No one came to throw us off and when we arrived in Takefu we were able to buy a ticket so we could get out of the station and at the same time buy a return ticket to the next destination,Kanazaaw, later that day.

So far the trip was going according to our schedule UNTIL we went to get in the taxi. All our destinations are in English, a good thing for us but not for our taxi driver. We might as well have asked him to drive us to the moon, he had not the faintest idea where we wanted to go. Lots of conversation back and forth, he in Japanese and we in English. Google maps did us know good and I realized Google translate was not going to help. Taxi driver number two comes up, I breathe a sign of relief because our driver was about our age and I am not sure he was completely with it. Number two cannot figure out where we are to go.

Ok, now it is time to resort to sign language so I begin to show myself working on a wheel and saying “Ceramic.” The light bulb goes off for Number 2 and he instructs Number 1 on where he thinks we are going. We pile in Number 1 cab and drive 200 feet and he parks. Turns out we have to buy a taxi card and the women who sold it to us spoke English and knew where we wanted to go. Off we went into the mountains.

Arriving at Echizen Ware Industrial Cooperative there is not a car in sight, it looked like the rapture had happened and no one was left. Our driver had no idea where we were to meet, the map gave us no help and the phone number we called left the drive confused in Japanese and me confused in English. Something about texting me a picture, which I knew was never going to come through as my phone was not receiving or accepting calls within Japan. There was a round building that looked promising so went there, all closed up except one door. The driver and I went in and found one lonely person working. Once again a phone call and this time we struck gold, he knew where to tell the driver to go.

We arrive at a pottery store and no one knows what we are doing there. Another phone call and finally we are told someone is coming to meet us. Our taxi cab driver was happy to dump us and promised to be back at 4:30. While we waited we looked at the most beautiful pottery from this region, Echizen. I asked if they shipped and they said, “Very sorry, not to the U.S. anymore. Trump not good, tariffs.” We understood that immediately. Everyone showed very sad faces and agreed no one liked him. This is the second time we have run into this in 5 days.

Taka, our guide finally arrived, gave us the history of the area and the style of Echizen pottery which is very simple. Originally it was made only for utilitarian uses. It was very thick and plain. In the 12 th century the artisans began making more delicate pieces with decoration and glazes. This is because the seat of power was Kyoto with wealthy people wanting upscale items. This area was close to Kyoto. We walked around the area and looked at the large sculptures and then went off to meet the potters.

What a highlight, we met a father and son team who were very friendly. The father had a twinkle in his eye and was very engaging. The son said he did not learn from his father, but went to art school. The building where they had their studio was built by the grandfather and was a work of art itself. I wedged the clay, but did not make anything, only watched as they worked. We admired their work and asked about several pieces. I said I could not buy anything and I was sorry. Again we heard complaints of the tariffs and he showed us three shelves of clay pieces that were ordered from New York and the order was cancelled. So it seems the tariffs are not only hurting, us but small business people as these two.

We left and met a new taxi driver. We figured the other one quit after his experience earlier in the day. Arrived at the train station and without any mishaps we arrived in Kanazawa. Tomorrow a tour of the more artisans.