Leaving early this morning from Olkhon Island we feel like veterans of the area. We pass the lone birch tree where lovers from different economic status fell in love, forbidden to marry and did so anyway. This was the legend told to us; the parents of the son went to the Shaman and asked him why he married them and he said if I was right a birch tree will grow here and if I am wrong it won’t. A tree grew and at least these lovers did not get turned to stone, like every other fable we have heard.

Colored ribbons are tied to the tree for prayers, and in fact, they are tied to many posts and trees in sacred areas. Blue for the endless sky, white for purity, red for earth, and yellow for wealth and happiness. I thought these were prayer flags but was corrected as they are just ribbons. It seems all the same to me, everyone sending prayers in some form. I know it sounds like I am being cynical, but I truly believe that these cultures are more attuned to our world than other religions. It is a belief in the universe, the sky, the fields, the lake… these are their gods and they have a deep respect for the earth.

Although we knew the archeologists believe that people from Siberian and Mongolia migrated across the Bering Straits, we can see so many similarities in these cultures, there does not seem to be any question. Early houses are similar to the teepee and the nomadic way of life and physical features all add up to this conclusion. After all, Alaska did belong to Russia.

It is “Victory Day” with grand parades in Moscow and the big cities. Everyone is off work. As we pass villages, we see small parades of school children with balloons and dressed in army clothes. The dress of the day has a military look with brown shirts, kaki pants, belt and a cap with a Soviet pin. Unlike our Veteran’s Day in November, this is the time that Moscow pulls out the military tanks etc. Our guide talks about what a terrible time it was for the Russians and how little food there was. She talks about how America, British, and French troops fought side by side in WW II with the Russians; how the Mongolians helped fight the Japanese at the Chinese border. It is so different to listen to the stories understanding now how surrounded Russia was by the enemies and how distant the U.S. was from the fear and the action.

Our guide says today there are people who are trying to defend going to war with the United States and how stupid these people are. We agree that war is not going to get any of us anything but heartaches. It is interesting to listen to attitudes that exist and not to comment or judge. We do however, stress how most Americans are like the Russians, they do not want war.

Enough about “Victory Day.” We roll into a town where we are told there it is a Buryak museum. We have a Buryat guide who speaks in Russian and Kristina translates. I cannot take my eyes off this women and want so badly to take a picture of her. Being a sculptor, I am trying to figure out her nose, which seems to come straight out of her face with no bridge connecting the upper forehead. Her cheeks are even with her nose and she has pert lips that also seems even with her nose. There seems to be no mussel, her face is so unusual. There was this space that was flat between the eyes. Oh, how I wish I had taken a picture of her, I think she would be so interesting to sculpt.

We got to see Wooly Mammoth bones, and teeth the size of a buffet dinner plate. The leg bone alone would be big enough to carve out a child’s cradle. Did you know that the Wooly Mammoth could grow back his teeth 4 times in his life? Apparently chomping on things, he wears them down. Let me tell you, these are awfully big teeth to be worn down. Now they have the DNA for him, having found some intact near this region. Will we clone Wooly Mammoths in the future? I hope not.

The highlight of the trip back to Irkutsk, was our visit with a Shaman after our tour. A large burly man with a long tunic and fur hat welcomed us and offered us a seat. He asked where we were from and we talked a bit of politics, and philosophy. Then he gave us instruction on how we should conduct ourselves to make sure that we eat the right things, sit correctly and stand so that the energy is not blocked. Guess I am going to have to practice not crossing my legs or arms. Prayers were said, some paper and herbs were burned, then we were dressed in traditional clothes, what is this obsession everyone has with dressing us up? Suddenly Shap finds himself in a huge bear hug by this Shaman who was twice his size. I am thinking, this guy better not be hugging me. Luckily, women do not get bear hugs. Walking clockwise around posts we chose a ribbon to tie on to them and give a wish. He asked for us to have a safe trip and for our family to be healthy. We left, the three of us, feeling a sense of peace and happiness.

Shamans go back generations in families. It is difficult to become one and there are different levels of achievement. We asked if one of his children would be following him, and he said his middle son was the one that was interested and went to all the ceremonies with him. Apparently, women can also be Shaman. Amazing, someone thought we were smart back in the ages. Olkhon Island and the area around it, follow the traditional beliefs. I find it interesting that for the longest time religion was frowned on and now is accepted, with the Russian Orthodox Church gaining in popularity. Apparently, the church is railing against abortion with ardent supporters just like the U.S. It seems church and state cannot separate themselves.

We arrived back in Irkutsk, staying at a charming inn in the middle of the city with a tour tomorrow of the Decembrist houses and more.