We follow Lake Baikal as the sun rose, reflecting colors of pink and purple. We gather out belongings to get off at Irkutsk. Coming out of the train onto the platform, dragging our suitcases behind us, I came to the realization that we had to go down at least 30 steps and under the track. My suitcase weighs about 45 pounds and I think just for this trip down the stairs, it added another 100 pounds, or at least it felt like that. Much to my dismay we had to walk up just as many stairs to get to the main level. I was ready to throw everything away and wear jeans and my parka for the rest of the trip. I dread the reverse trip on the 11^th. I asked myself how many 72 year olds are dragging suitcases up stairs? I should be proud instead of being very grumpy.

Our guide Kristina apologizes for the inconvenience and rushes us off to a waiting car. Our driver Andre does not speak English but manages to find us a “Subway” open Sunday morning for a cup of coffee. Who would have thought our only option for coffee was “Subway.”

We are facing a 6-hour trip to Olkhon Island, the largest island on Lake Baikal. It is relatively uninhabited and is 70 kilometers long. It rises out of the lake and is known as the home of the Siberian Shamans. The landscape goes from barren prairie or steeps to forest. Kristina is a walking history and geography encyclopedia with excellent English. She loves this island and it is apparent in her enthusiasm for the landscape. She had just returned that day from the island in order to pick us up and was just as happy to be back.

Our accommodations’ at Nikita’s Guesthouse was a welcome change after the train. A comfortable bed, an ability to wash clothes, and bodies. Hot water would have been a treat but the bathroom was warm.

We toured around the beach to Shaman Rock , looking down on it from a bluff. The lake is still frozen in areas and if you are very still you can hear the ice shifting. Magpies flutter from tree to ground and the local dogs adopted us along the way. Shaman Rock is sacred to the Boryat people who were a fierce tribe of people who even fought off Ghanghis Kahn. The Buddhist also feel the rock has special powers.

The town could be a movie set for a western. Dirt streets, wooden houses, and wooden fences, some with elaborate windows but generally the village looks abandoned at this time of the year. Although it was a holiday on May 9^th (Victory Day), there were only a few tourists spending the weekend. Electricity did not come to the island until 2005 and we were mighty happy that it did, so we could recharge all of our devices. There was still no wifi available.

I feel so lucky that I read about this island and made arrangements to come here. Most people get off in Irkutsk and visit the lake on a day trip and never get to see this area. Shap and I have not stopped exclaiming at the beauty that enfolds us at every turn.

Scenery that cannot be described, with valleys stretching for miles, tiny purple flowers blooming in rocky soil, old stone walls built by ancient tribes, and sacrificial stones believed to sacrifice animals; all with a backdrop of Lake Baikal’s deep blue color. Lake Baikal was created by a riff in the earth and is said to widen 1 meter every year.

Our next day proved to be one of the most interesting drives through countryside that we have ever experienced. An off road vehicle arrived and we climbed into it with no expectation of what was to come. We were unable to go into the forest as it was dry and the local authorities were worried about forest fires, so we went south over the steepes. Immediately we turned off the main road, this was hardly a road having been built recently, not only was it not paved, but it was not smoothed either. Driving on old pathways we bounced from side to side and up and down over terrain that looked to be part dirt and mostly rock. Our local driver was full of folklore, which Kristina translated for us. In most cases it was a dreadful horse turned to stone, or lovers turned to stone – it seemed every story someone was turned to stone. We followed pathways up small mountains covered with dirt, rock, cow dung, and sometimes-small spring flowers. We watched the movement of the ice on the lake, and experienced the winds, snow, and sun.

Shap trying out for a job as a guide since he has the same hat as they are wearing. 

Two lovers turned to stone after they were told not to be together. They were allowed to be together but could not face each other so they now face away from each other on the stone.

Shap and Kristina on top of one of the Trident rocks

With no houses, or villages anywhere around we were surprised to pull over at a beach and watch our driver pull out from the back of the jeep (?) a table, camp stools, and cooking pot. We walked along the beach and up to a look out, then we came back to find a pot full of fish staring up at us.

I could feel Shap’s reaction without even looking at him. He does not like fish unless it comes fileted to him on his plate. Eyes, tail, and bones were all floating around ready for our consumption. Tin bowls were filled with steaming potatoes, rice, onions; and thank God the body of the fish and not the head. It was delicious, but how to attack the chunks of fish was the question. Finally I stabbed it with a spoon and got off a chunk and picked up the rest to extract the skeleton. What was that black tube in the middle of the skeleton? Oh no don’t look or think about it, just put it aside on the napkin and ignore it. It was a great lunch and so much better than any restaurant we could have stopped at, if there were any!

Six hours of the most amazing sights, something we are so happy to experienced.

Tomorrow back to Irkstuk.